Key takeaways

If you drive for your 1099 or self-employed work, you can write off your car in one of two ways:

  • The standard mileage method lets you deduct a set rate for every business mile: 72.5 cents per mile for January through June 2026 and 76 cents from July through December.

  • The actual expenses method lets you deduct the business share of what your car really costs, from gas and insurance to depreciation.

Standard mileage usually wins if you drive a lot of business miles in an affordable, fuel-efficient car. Actual expenses usually wins if your car costs more per mile than the IRS rate. That tends to happen with a newer or pricier car, high insurance or repair bills, or fewer miles.

This matters even more for rideshare and delivery drivers, since a bigger car deduction lowers both your income tax and your self-employment tax.

Mileage vs. actual expenses at a glance

Standard mileage vs. actual expenses at a glance, 2026.

Standard mileage

Actual expenses

What you deduct

Business miles × the IRS rate

Your total car costs × your business-use percentage

2026 rate

72.5¢ per mile (Jan 1 to Jun 30), 76¢ (Jul 1 to Dec 31)

No set rate

What it covers

The rate already covers gas, oil, repairs, tires, insurance, registration, and depreciation, so you can't deduct those separately

Your real costs for gas, oil, repairs, tires, insurance, registration, and depreciation or lease payments, times your business-use percentage

Also deductible

Business parking and tolls. If you're self-employed, also the business share of car loan interest and personal property tax

Same as standard mileage: business parking and tolls, plus (if you're self-employed) the business share of car loan interest and personal property tax

Records you need

A mileage log

A mileage log plus receipts for every car cost

Usually best for

High-mileage drivers with an economical car

Pricier cars, high costs, or fewer miles

Want to plug in your own numbers? Our free mileage deduction calculator compares both methods for you.

How the standard mileage method works

The IRS created the standard mileage rate to make car write-offs simpler. Instead of tracking every gas receipt and repair bill, you track the miles you drive for work and multiply them by the IRS rate.

The IRS sets the rate each year, and it raised the 2026 rate mid-year:

Miles driven

Business rate

Jan 1 to Jun 30, 2026

72.5¢ per mile

Jul 1 to Dec 31, 2026

76¢ per mile

2025

70¢ per mile

So for 2026, you multiply your miles from each half of the year by that half's rate. If you drove 2,500 business miles before July and 2,500 after, your deduction is $1,812.50 + $1,900 = $3,712.50.

The rate is meant to cover everything it costs to run your car, including gas, oil, repairs, tires, insurance, registration, and depreciation. That's why you can't deduct those costs separately. Part of the rate (33 cents for 2025 and 35 cents for 2026) counts as depreciation and lowers your car's tax basis, which matters if you later switch methods or sell the car.

Write-offs you can claim on top of the standard mileage rate

Some costs aren't built into the rate, so you can deduct them in addition to your mileage:

  • 🅿️ Parking fees for business trips (not parking at your regular workplace)

  • 🛣️ Tolls

  • 💳 The business share of interest on your car loan, if you're self-employed

  • 🏛️ The business share of personal property tax on your car, if you're self-employed

You'll still need receipts for these. Keeper can make that easier by automatically scanning your purchases for work-related expenses like parking and tolls.

Who can't use the standard mileage rate

According to IRS Topic 510, you can't use the standard mileage rate if you:

  • Use five or more cars for your business at the same time

  • Claimed depreciation on the car using any method other than straight-line, or claimed Section 179 or bonus depreciation on it

  • Already used actual expenses for a car you lease

Track and claim every eligible deduction with Keeper

Keeper scans your accounts for write-offs and files your return — with tax pros reviewing every one.

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How the actual expenses method works

With the actual expenses method, you add up everything you spent on your car during the year, then deduct the business share.

These costs count:

  • ⛽ Gas and oil

  • 🛡️ Insurance

  • 🔧 Repairs and maintenance

  • 🛞 Tires

  • 🏷️ Registration and license fees

  • 💰 Lease payments, if you lease

  • 📉 Depreciation, if you own

  • 🅿️ Parking and tolls for business trips

  • 💳 Car loan interest, if you're self-employed

Your business-use percentage is your business miles divided by your total miles for the year. If you drove 12,000 miles and 6,000 were for work, your business use is 50%, so you'd deduct half of your total car costs.

You can't deduct the price of the car all at once. You recover it through depreciation over several years, up to yearly IRS limits. For a car you start using in 2026, the first-year limit is $12,300, or $20,300 with bonus depreciation, according to Rev. Proc. 2026-15. Bonus depreciation and Section 179 require more than 50% business use. Our car depreciation guide walks through the details.

How to claim actual car expenses without tracking everything by hand

The actual expenses method used to mean a shoebox of receipts. Now Keeper can scan your purchases for car expenses automatically, so you don't have to keep a spreadsheet. You'll still want a mileage log to figure out your business-use percentage.

Which method saves more? 2026 examples

The answer depends on how much you drive and what your car costs. Here are three drivers, using 2026 rates with business miles split evenly between the two halves of the year. The car costs are examples, not national averages, so swap in your own.

Which method saves more depends on how you drive. Example costs, not national averages.

Typical driver

Heavy driver

Pricier car, fewer miles

Total miles / business use

10,000 / 50%

20,000 / 75%

8,000 / 60%

Business miles

5,000

15,000

4,800

Total car costs

$7,100

$9,100

$15,140

Standard mileage deduction

🏆 $3,713

🏆 $11,138

$3,564

Actual expenses deduction

$3,550

$6,825

🏆 $9,084

Better method

Standard mileage, by $163

Standard mileage, by $4,313

Actual expenses, by $5,520

What's in each driver's costs:

  • Typical driver: $1,300 gas (25 mpg at $3.25 a gallon), $1,800 insurance, $700 repairs and maintenance, $300 registration, and $3,000 depreciation on a car bought a few years ago.

  • Heavy driver: the same car and insurance, with $2,600 gas and $1,400 repairs from twice the driving.

  • Pricier car, fewer miles: a $50,000 car in its first year, with $10,000 of regular first-year depreciation (20%, under the $12,300 limit), plus $1,040 gas, $2,600 insurance, $900 repairs, and $600 registration.

The break-even point

Actual expenses only wins when your car costs more per business mile than the IRS rate. For the typical driver above, standard mileage gives $3,712.50, so actual expenses would only come out ahead if the car cost more than $7,425 for the year ($7,425 × 50% = $3,712.50).

A bigger deduction is worth your tax rate times the difference. At a combined 30% marginal rate (income tax plus self-employment tax), every extra $1,000 you deduct saves about $300.

Notice the catch in the third example: that driver is choosing actual expenses in the car's first year, which means they can never switch that car to standard mileage. If you're not sure, our mileage deduction calculator can run your numbers both ways.

Can you switch between standard mileage and actual expenses?

Yes, if you used standard mileage in the first year the car was used for business. If you used actual expenses that first year, you can't switch that car to standard mileage later. Leased cars follow a stricter rule.

Can you switch methods later? It depends on what you chose in year one.
  • Car you own, standard mileage in year one: you can choose either method in later years. If you switch to actual expenses, you depreciate the car using the straight-line method over its remaining useful life.

  • Car you own, actual expenses in year one: you're locked in to actual expenses for as long as you use that car for business.

  • Car you lease: whichever method you choose the first year, you have to use for the entire lease, including renewals.

The rules apply per car, so if you have two vehicles, you can use a different method for each. If you think you might ever want standard mileage for a car you own, use it in the first year. That keeps both options open. You can read the full rules in IRS Publication 463.

Special situations

Electric vehicles

The standard mileage rate is the same for electric and hybrid cars as for gas cars. Because EVs usually cost less per mile to run, the standard rate often beats actual expenses for EV drivers who put on a lot of business miles. If you use actual expenses, your charging costs count toward your car costs.

Rideshare and delivery drivers

If you drive for Uber, Lyft, DoorDash, or similar apps, you usually rack up enough miles for standard mileage to win. The mileage in your app's tax summary may not include every business mile, so keep your own log. Each guide covers that app's tax forms and write-offs.

W-2 employees

If you're an employee, you generally can't deduct unreimbursed work mileage on your federal return. If your employer reimburses you at or below the IRS rate under an accountable plan, that reimbursement isn't taxed.

Commuting

Driving from home to your regular workplace is commuting, and it's not deductible under either method. Drives to clients, between job sites, or to pick up supplies count as business miles. See business miles vs. commuting miles.

What records do you need?

The IRS wants records made at or near the time of each drive. For every business trip, write down:

  • The date

  • Where you went

  • The business purpose

  • The miles you drove

Also note your odometer reading at the start and end of the year, so you know your total miles. For actual expenses, keep receipts for every car cost too. Our free mileage log template has the columns you need. Or skip the spreadsheet: the Keeper app tracks your car expenses and miles for you, so your records are ready at tax time.

Keeper pro tip: Take a picture of your odometer on January 1. If you forget to log any miles, you'll still know where you started the year.

Pros and cons of each method

Standard mileage

Actual expenses

Pros

✅  Simple: you only track miles

✅  Usually bigger for high-mileage drivers

✅  Keeps both options open if you use it in year one

✅  Can be much bigger for pricier cars or fewer miles

✅  Lets you deduct your car's real depreciation

Cons

❌  Usually smaller if your car costs more per mile than the IRS rate

❌  Doesn't reflect high costs, like a pricey car's insurance or depreciation

❌  More recordkeeping: receipts for every car cost

❌  Locks an owned car in if you use it in year one

❌  A leased car has to stay on it for the whole lease

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FAQ

Additional contributions by Arielle Contreras.

Paul Koullick
Written by

Paul Koullick

Product leader and ex-CEO / founder of Keeper. He's been quoted as an authority on taxes in U.S. News & World Report, Vice, Forbes, and others. Paul holds an A.B. from Harvard University.

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a tax professional
Reviewed by

a tax professional

This content has been reviewed by an Enrolled Agent (EA) with the IRS — the highest credential awarded by the agency. Enrolled Agents are empowered to represent all taxpayers before the IRS, on all types of tax-related matters. Accountants who earn this certification have passed a comprehensive three-part exam on individual and business tax returns. To maintain EA status, they must stay up to date in the field by completing 72 hours of continuing education every three years.

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4 sources
  1. Standard mileage rates · irs.gov
  2. Topic no. 510, Business use of car · irs.gov
  3. Internal Revenue Bulletin: 2026-13 · irs.gov
  4. Publication 463 (2025), Travel, Gift, and Car Expenses · irs.gov
Editorial standards

Keeper’s tax guides are built on primary sources: the tax code, IRS forms, instructions and publications, and state tax agency guidance. We link to external sources where appropriate and check figures against the tax year they apply to. This article was peer reviewed by a licensed tax professional (CPA or EA).

This article is for informational purposes only and isn’t tax, legal, or financial advice. Tax rules change and depend on your situation, so talk to a tax professional about yours.